This garden arbor is simple to build and has a beautiful end result — the very best of both worlds for a do-it-yourselfer. The foundation of this arbor is made up of simple structure which can be as simple or as elaborate as wanted, and also the piece may be utilised in many ways outdoors. Use it to showcase a walkway, create a transition from 1 place to another, pay for a bench or gate, or frame a stunning view.

Meg Padgett

Our arbor was both inexpensive and easy to build — to not mention that it’s a beautiful addition to our lawn. It cost less than $150 and took us to construct, such as concrete drying period.

Materials:
(4) 4-by-4 10-foot-long pressure-treated posts(two ) 2-by-6 8-foot-long bamboo planks (1) 2-by-4 8-foot-long bamboo plank (3) 2-by-2 8-foot-long pressure-treated ballusters(two ) Premade wooden ladder trellises(8) 60-pound bags of concreteRustproof deck screwsGravelMeasuring tapeLevelShovelScrap 2-by-4sLadder

Meg Padgett

Plan the Website and the measurements for the arbor. We built a 2-foot-long, 5-foot-wide and 7 1/2-foot-tall arbor at the end of our winding pathway.

Mark the center of the four pole holes. Start with one corner of the arbor and then assess the width and length with that corner. Make sure your holes are perpendicular using either a T-square or a 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 triangle. The diagonals should be the exact same length.

Dig four pole holes based around your marks to a depth of 2 1/2 ft — dig a few more inches deeper to permit dirt — and one foot in diameter. This depth will offer a solid foundation for the arbor.

Meg Padgett

Build a service which will keep the posts standing straight, plumb and square while the concrete sets. We built ours with four 2-by-4s and attached them to one another with deck screws so that they were easily adjustable.

Don’t overlook that the holes have been measured center to center, so when you are building the service make certain to include the added width of the posts. We added 3 inches to every dimension because we used 4-by-4 posts.

Meg Padgett

Next, add about 3 to 4 inches of gravel to every hole. Place the posts in the holes against the corner of every service. Make sure that all posts are the exact same height; remove or add gravel if necessary. Check again that are level, plumb and square.

To maintain the posts plumb, attach two scrap 2-by-4 supports with screws to the bottom of every post, as revealed. Again, check that are level, plumb and square.

Measure the outside dimensions of the article and make sure all the corresponding measurements are equal, such as the diagonals. Adjust as needed. Use one of the 2-by-6 cedar boards to make sure all of the faces are flush to one another by placing it against every pair of posts.

Meg Padgett

After the posts are set, add concrete to the holes. Follow the instructions on your bag of concrete for special mixing recommendations. We mixed ours at a wheelbarrow and added water in small increments. We lasted blending and adding water till it reached the consistency of crumbly cake.

Meg Padgett

Fill each hole with concrete and confirm that everything is level, plumb and square one last moment. Let the concrete dry and fix for the suggested time as listed for your concrete bag.

Meg Padgett

Next, prepare front and side cross-pieces. Cut the boards to a preferred length. Ours were 7 ft long for front and back cross-pieces, and 43 inches long for both side cross-pieces.

Add interest to the arbor by making a layout cut on each end. There are lots of design options to pick from — such as the simple dog-eared style, which could be cut with a circular saw, to a cut like the one , which requires a decoration. Use a template to ensure your cuts are the same. Sand every piece until it is smooth and even.

Meg Padgett

After the concrete has cured for 24 hours, then attach front, side and back cross-pieces, beginning with the sides. Start by attaching one side cross-piece 4 1/2 inches in top of the tallest post — due to settling, the posts may not be the exact same height. The space from the end of the cross-piece to the outside of this post should be equal. This will ensure that it is centered. Check that the cross-piece is level and attach it to the pole using deck screws.

To make sure that both side cross-pieces are level, rest a leading cross-piece on the attached side cross-piece and correct the unattached side piece till it reads level. Mark this place. Place the side cross-piece on the mark and attach it together with deck screws when it’s centered and level.

Note: The cross-pieces look best when they are to scale with one another. We attempted to utilize cedar fencing which we had available for the sides, but the board seemed too thin compared to the 4-by-4 posts and 2-by-6 boards, so we swapped the fencing out for 2-by-4 cedar, that gave the arbor a cohesive look.

Meg Padgett

Next, attach the front and back cross-pieces by resting each on the side cross-pieces. Make sure that both are based and level and that they extend over every article. We used rustproof deck screws to attach the front and back cross-pieces. Typically, lag screws have been used.

Meg Padgett

Together with the cross-pieces set up, cut the 2-by-2s to your preferred length. We made two top rails with 45-degree angles on each end out of one 8-foot-long balluster. To do so, mark the balluster at 47 1/4 inches and then cut away from that mark at a 45-degree angle. Cut each end’s angle to reflect the very first cut, making sure to cut on from the end to maintain the span intact.

Use a miter box and a hand saw or miter saw to cut the angles, unless you are adept at cutting edge angles together with the circular saw.

Twist the best railings perpendicularly to the top of the front and back cross-pieces with deck screws. For an open texture, place the top rails farther apart, and for a cozier feel, place them closer together. We mounted six 47 1/4-inch-long top railings 1 foot from each end and one foot away from one another on center.

Meg Padgett

Feeling inspired? You may try your hand at building your own trellis. Then attach a premade trellis to every side of this arbor with galvanized nails.

Meg Padgett

While the building of this arbor is finished, the overall finish remains open to personal preference.

Consider staining or painting the arbor to match your home or other garden decor items, or leave it as is for a more natural and weathered look as time passes. We stained ours together with Behr’s Premium Weatherproofing Semi-Transparent Stain at Cordovan Brown to match our deck.

Meg Padgett

To utilize the arbor’s trellised sides, then put in a climbing plant like this climbing hydrangea.

Don’t be discouraged if your plant is not climbing as fast as you would like. Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and blossom but make up for this when they attain maturity with beautiful green leaves and aromatic, lacy blooms.

Meg Padgett

Add evergreen hanging plants, like this creeping myrtle, for a yearlong increase of color. Complete the look off with a stainless-steel outside lantern to illuminate the arbor at nighttime.

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