Browse Author: Extres

Fixing a Lawnmower Fuel Injector

Your lawnmower works in tough conditions. Whirling dust and grit can input the engine’s fuel system and clog its fuel injectors, leaving the mower sputtering or hard to begin. Fuel combined with ethanol may compound the problem because it corrodes metal parts and forms goo from the fuel line, and bits of corroded alloy and goo break away and wind up in the fuel injectors. Left untreated, the fuel injectors can get blocked. If your mower has dirty fuel injectors, then the issue can be corrected in just a few minutes. If a number of the fuel injectors are entirely obstructed, but then they likely need a deep cleaning with a certified mechanic.

Wait until your lawnmower’s gas tank is almost empty. Place 1 gallon of new gas in an empty gas container.

Add into the 1 gallon of fresh gas the amount of fuel-injector cleaner advocated on the cleaner’s label. Some brands involve mixing 1 ounce of fuel-injector cleaner with 1 gallon of petrol, but amounts vary among brands. Add just the amount of cleaner given on your own product’s label. The given amount should be used although many fuel-injector cleansers’ directions say that adding a lot of this cleaner will not damage an engine.

Put the cap onto the gas container that holds the 1 gallon of gas and the fuel-injector cleaner you inserted to it. Agitate the container lightly, thoroughly mixing the cleaner and gas.

Unscrew the cover of your lawnmower’s almost empty gas tank. Pour into the tank of this fuel-injector cleaner-gasoline mix to fill the tank. Secure the cap onto the mower’s tank. Place the cap back to the gas container, and place the container apart.

Initiate the lawnmower’s engine, and let it run about five minutes. This amount of time is required to allow the cleaner-gasoline mix to start unclogging the fuel injectors. Running the motor more removes more buildup from the fuel injectors, and therefore it would be a fantastic time to mow your lawn.

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Sanding for Wall Texture

Before applying texture into a drywall finish, the surface ought to be sanded. The smoother the finish on the drywall compound as the sand is applied, the easier and faster the sanding task will be. Use a hand sander or a handheld rotary tool with a sanding disc accessory used with a light touch when sanding joint compound in your walls.


Before sanding, any drywall compound used in corners, joints or dents in walls have to be completely dry. Standard drywall mud may take weeks to dry thoroughly, particularly in holes or dents where there’s a thick layer. Allow the material dry thoroughly before sanding, or it will require a repeat of the job. Place a fan in an open window to accelerate the procedure.

Hand Sanding

When the chemical is completely dry, it is ready for sanding. The objective of sanding would be to smooth the surface completely in preparation for texturing. Utilize a long-handled hand pole-sander having an 80- or 120-grit sandpaper specifically designed for sanding drywall after completing the task by hand.

Power Sanding

Some people today prefer having a handheld rotary tool for faster sanding and greater control, particularly on small sections requiring sanding. These stains take much longer using a hand sander, so with a rotary tool rates the occupation.


After sanding, there might be gouges and scrapes in the finish, particularly if the original mudding job was not done well. These gouges need to be filled in before texturing. Fill and smooth themthen let them dry. Sand again following the repairs are dried. Sanding joint compound creates a great deal of dust, so keep windows shut, put on a mask and goggles, and attempt to include the dust into the area by hanging vinyl in any openings or doorways.

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Can You Kill Grapevines With Rock Salt?

Grapes (Vitis vinifera) can be a smart addition to the edible garden, but might be difficult to eliminate whenever your needs change. Wild grapevines can be invasive, too. Most types of grapevine grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Rock salt will kill grapevines and it’ll also kill everything else in the area. It can take a long time to flush salt in the ground.

Water Vampire

Rock salt causes grapevines to dehydrate and die. The grapevine roots bring the salt to the plant, along with water. Once in the plant, the rock salt prevents photosynthesis and disrupts the grapevine’s capability to distribute water throughout the plant. Basically, the grapevine dies of dehydration.

The Getaway

Rock salt will kill all plants in the same manner. Water from rain or watering dissolves the salt and spreads it farther in the dirt. Any plants which come in contact with the rock salt will also be killed. It can take years for the rock salt to be diluted and flushed from the soil so plants can grow again. Unless you don’t ever want to develop anything in that region again, you’re better off with another method to kill the grapevine.

No Food

Reducing grapevines down could be an effective method of removal, even though it takes time. The grapevine should be cut at the root, only above ground level. Every vine coming out of the root must be cut to work. The severed vines will dry and become easier to eliminate from whatever they’ve attached to. The roots will try to send up new vines, which need to be cut down quickly. Once the grapevines are severed, the roots will not have a supply of energy in the photosynthesis and will eventually die.

Sun Visor

Grapevines need sunlight and don’t do well in full shade. It is also likely to kill them by packing them, although this will take a few years to kill the grapevine. Covering an whole grapevine might not be functional, but combining shade with cutting grapevines can be effective. When the severed root tries to send up a new vine, the shade stops the newest vine from prospering and supplying the root with sufficient energy to develop. Severed roots could be shaded by mulch along with other plants or things like tarps or thick plastic.

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How Far Away from a Propane Tank Should Shrubs Be Placed?

A propane tank is a quality example of a essential utility product which adds little to the beauty of a landscape. Landscaping around the cylinder can mask the eyesore, but careful planning is needed to achieve both functionality and attractiveness. Good plant selection and spacing are crucial to ensure success.

Proper Strategy

Planning before planting is an integral element in successfully landscaping around a propane tank. Because the cylinder must be serviced or filled on a regular basis, plenty of space is necessary to get the cylinder easily. Mark all above-ground and below-ground propane line locations as well as other utility line locations, and keep a list of them for future reference. Studying plants before putting them around the cylinder is vital. Knowing their characteristics, such as growth rates, ultimate size and hardiness, can eliminate future issues.

Plant Choice

Correct plant choice is key to any successful landscape, but especially when trying to hide a utility item such as a propane tank. Upright evergreen shrubs with a thick branching structure can provide year-round cover and act as a backdrop for any flowering plants you may want to plant in front of them. Plants with thorns must be kept further from the cylinder to ensure employees have protected access to the cylinder.

Space Requirements

Spacing of plants around a propane tank impacts the landscape’s aesthetic beauty and the cylinder’s serviceability. Because plants grow, it’s very important to know a plant’s mature size before planting. Place shrubs far enough from the cylinder to allow simple access into the tank for maintenance and filling. A rule of thumb when planting is to space shrubs so that when they are mature they will be around 3 or 4 feet apart from each other and about 5 feet from the cylinder.

Other Factors

Although one objective of putting shrubs about a propane tank is to beautify an otherwise unsightly attribute, safety should also be kept in mind. Placing shrubs too near a propane tank, especially shrubs with dry leaf, such as ornamental grasses, may increase the site’s fire danger. The use of an organic or inorganic mulch around 5 or 6 feet between the cylinder and all landscaping may create a fire break before flames could get to the tank.

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Which type of Tiger Lily Is Yellow & Red?

The tiger lily (Lilium columbianum) is grown from seed and requires three to five years to produce small flowers, 2 inches round, featuring orange petals with dark spots. It doesn’t arrive in a yellow and red selection. However, there are numerous lilies with large blossoms in red and yellow which are also easier to grow than tiger lilies. True lilies come in the genus Lilum, but many other comparable flowers are generally thought of as lilies and the word “lily” appears within their common names.

Dwarf Asiatic Lily

Varieties of dwarf Asiatic lily (Lilium) bear large striking bi-colored flowers in red and yellow in mid-summer. “Tiny Sensation” has lemon-yellow petals spotted with a brilliant red and rises 12 to 14 inches tall. “Tiny Orange Sensation” grows 14 to 16 inches tall, with flowers that have orangish-yellow and crimson-red petals. Both thrive in full sunlight or partial shade, are outstanding selections for rock gardens or borders and also grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 9.

Daylilies in the Trophytaker Collection

Distinctive varieties of daylilies (Hemerocallis) in the Trophytaker collection have large blossoms with wide red petals and bright yellow centers. “Siloam Justine Lee” blossoms in early through mid-summer using cherry-red flowers. It grows 12 to 16 inches tall in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 9. “Royal Occasion” has burgundy-red flowers from mid-summer through late summer and rises 23 to 25 inches tall in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9. Both flowers grow in full sunlight or partial shade.

Daylilies in the Happy Ever Appster Collection

Eye-catching types of daylilies in the Happy Ever Appster collection screen everblooming blossoms in hues of red and yellow. “Romantic Returns” grows 21 to 23 inches tall and attributes coral-rose petals with creamy yellow centers that bloom from early summer through mid-fall. “When My Sweetheart Returns” displays cream petals with a bold rose ring and bright yellow centers from mid-summer through mid-fall. It rises 14 to 16 inches tall. Both blossoms have distinguishing ruffled petals, flourish in full sunlight to partial shade and grow in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 9.


Several torchlily varieties (Kniphofia), also known as red-hot pokers, have quite large bottlebrush heads with yellow in the bottom and red flowers on top. “Royal Castle” attains 31 to 35 inches tall and blooms from late spring through the summer. “Flamenco” rises 29 to 35 inches tall and blooms in early summer through early fall. Both these evergreens thrive in full sunlight, grow in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9, and bring hummingbirds.

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Uses of Daisy Fleabane

From late spring through midsummer, daisy fleabane (Erigeron speciosus) blossoms profusely. This North American native plant brings color to naturalized areas and garden settings. A biennial or short-lived perennial, daisy fleabane is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2b through 9b.

Plant Characteristics

Daisy fleabane flowers are small, about 1/2 inch in diameter and resemble a daisy with several beams extending from the middle. It’s similarity to the common daisy is no injury as both belong to the Asteraceae plant family. The most common blossom color found is a yellowish center with white beams, but horticulturalists have developed a number of flower colors, like purple, rose and crimson. Some height variation is one of different varieties but many are between 1 1/2 and 3 feet tall.

Daisy Fleabane from the Garden

Native plant gardens make important habitats for birds, beneficial insects, butterflies and creatures. Daisy fleabane is ideal for naturalized areas, wildflower gardens, meadows, border regions and cottage gardens. This hardy little plant thrives in clay and rocky soil conditions and enjoys a spot in full sun with some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Daisy fleabane does not compete well with larger-leafed plants and also will suffer if overshadowed in the garden.

Rock Gardens

Finding hardy plants which thrive in the rocky soil of a rock garden may present a challenge, but the daisy fleabane in perfectly suited to these ailments. The smaller varieties grow 1.5 feet tall, better suited to larger rock garden areas compared to both- to 3-foot tall varieties. Attempt Erigeron speciosus “Shining Sea,” a 1 1/2 foot tall variety with light blue flowers, or Erigeron speciosus “Dignity,” another low-growing variety with magenta flowers. For a traditional white blossom with yellow centres, the 1 1/2-foot-tall Erigeron speciosus “Summer Snow” is one to try.

Cut Flowers

An ample wildflower garden produces enough flowers to brighten up the landscape having enough left over to bring inside. Add daisy fleabane to wildflower arrangements, or produce a simple scent of daisy fleabane on its own. Mornings and evenings, once the weather is cool, are the best time to cut flowers in the garden. Bring a jar of water with you and submerge the cut flower stalks right away. Place cut flowers in a cool indoor spot out of direct sunlight for a scent that is long-lasting.

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How to Choose a Hearth Rug

Rugs keep your toes warm and prevent you from slipping on slick tiles, and some serve a more special purpose — such as stopping grass and leaves in the door or protecting flooring beneath them, especially in high traffic areas or around fireplaces. Hearthrugs are specially designed rugs that help prevent fires and other damage by protecting the wood flooring or carpeting beneath them from prying fireplace embers.

Safety First

Before you purchase a hearthrug, look for a guarantee that the carpet is fire-resistant. Although there are health concerns connected with fire retardants, a natural fiber hearthrug is 1 item that makes them vital. Wood-burning fireplaces frequently pop and crackle, throwing little bits of burning embers a few feet out on the floor. While stone and ceramic floors won’t burn, hardwood and carpet floors can catch fire. Hearthrugs can be found in conventional wool Oriental carpet patterns and colors, and you may occasionally see them in solid colors. If you’ve got a traditional decor and cost is not a consideration, then look for wool fiber rugs.


A modern alternative to a conventional cloth hearthrug is just manufactured with fiberglass. Flying embers that territory on a fiberglass rug will burn out harmlessly. Also, you do not need to worry about toxic fire retardants because fiberglass rugs aren’t treated with chemicals. Because they are vinyl backed, fiberglass hearth rugs wo not slip or slip on a hardwood floor. These rugs are currently only available in solid neutral colors, which would match a modern decor.

Nylon and Olefin

If you’re looking for more interesting patterns to spice up your decor while guarding your flooring, then consider nylon. Nylon hearthrugs will not burn, but the fibers are going to melt when struck by a hot ember. Hearthrugs produced of olefin, another artificial fiber, will char whether a burning log rolls them, but they wo not burnoff. Both nylon and olefin rugs are more affordable than the more expensive wool or fiberglass hearthrugs. You can see them in a range of patterns and colors for every decor design, from animal prints to sports-team themes.


Hearth rugs come in three basic shapes — rectangular, half round and oval. Rectangular fireplace rugs sit flat against the right edge of your hearth and therefore are usually 22 inches deep. Half-round fireplace rugs, which appear like half of a circle, also sit flat against the hearth and therefore are normally 26 inches deep in the center. Oval fireplace rugs are frequently braided and could suit a country-style decor. You can occasionally find nylon rugs cut to appear like an animal pelt.

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How to Prune a Dracaena Fragrans Massangeana

Dracaena fragrans “Massangeana” is frequently referred to as corn plant. Other monikers include mass cane, fragrant dracaena and Massangeana. This true tropical is winter hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 10b through 11 and lends itself well to indoor culture. Undemanding and quite tolerant of novice gardeners, corn plant may grow very large and needs periodic pruning to keep its size manageable. While you can safely prune this plant during the year, trim it back through spring or summer to control growth efficiently.

Use clear, sharp shears or loppers to prune the corn plant’s comes back to an appealing height. Make your cuts clean and leave no ragged edges. New shoots sill soon emerge directly below the cuts. Prune stalks straight across for even shoot increase, or cut at an angle for interesting variants in shoot heights. Leave at least 12 inches of the stem above the ground level. Should you maintain your corn plant lifted on a table or stand, prune stalks to between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 feet tall to make an appealing accent. For larger floor plants, prune stalks to between 3 1/2 and 5 feet tall to include dramatic highlights to any décor. Multi-stemmed corn crops are especially handsome with stalks trimmed to staggered lengths.

Cut two or three of the stalks of adult multi-stemmed corn plants close to each other at the exact same height to fill in sparse sections of the canopy wherever you desire a thicker appearance. The new increase will rapidly populate the ends of the cut stems, leading to more foliar quantity in the region.

Prune out any broken, diseased or dead stem development as it happens during the year. Remove any discolored places, and all tissues which are not bright, healthy green.

Clip off occasional brown leaf areas with clean, sharp scissors because they may occur during the year. Cut across healthful tissue just above the brown element. Consider trimming out spots or brown borders by following the general outline of the leaf so that it is going to maintain its appealing form.

Prune all of the corn plant’s comes back to about 6 inches tall in the spring to replenish an extremely leggy or weak-looking plant. This will give it the entire growing season to produce strong new development and restore itself to its former beauty.

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Uses for Cherry Trees

Cherry trees have various uses in landscape layout. Depending on the number you choose, these tiny trees make perfect privacy displays, creamy hedges or street trees. You may even develop a few cherry trees as a bonsai or in containers. Cherry trees have showy blossoms and typically, but not always, get 20 to 25 feet tall and favor sites with acidic soil featuring full sun to partial shade. The fruiting varieties bear edible fruit or inedible drupes that attract wildlife, and some flowering varieties bear no fruit in any respect.

Boost a Privacy Screen

Shield your outside sitting area from onlookers throughout the warm weather months when you plant flowering cherry trees which develop into perfect privacy displays, including pink star flowering cherry (Prunus “Beni-Hoshi”), that rises in USDA plant hardiness zones 5b through 9, and the cherry tree “Accolade” (P. “Accolade”), that rises in USDA zones 6 through 8. These cherry trees grow in any sort of moist, highly acidic to alkaline soil, provide beautiful pink blossoms in spring and have green leaves which turn bronze or golden in fall. They produce no edible fruit to litter your own yard, and pink star flowering cherry contains fragrant blossoms.

Fruiting Hedges

Define property lines and block views of unsightly things in your yard when you plant cherry trees as hedges, including Surinam cherry (Eugenia uniflora) as well as the Cornelian-cherry tree “Variegata.” Surinam isn’t a true cherry tree, however it rises in the warmer climates of USDA zones 9 and 10 and creates an abundance of yellow, orange or crimson cherry-like, edible fruit up to 3 inches across in summer. It prefers moist, loamy or sandy soil with a pH that is slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, has shiny green or bronze foliage that turns red or purple in autumn and it bears attractive white blooms in spring. “Variegata” features green leaves outlined in creamy yellow which turn red in autumn. It favors a well-drained site with any sort of acidic soil, produces yellow flowers in spring which yield red edible fruit in the summer and grows in USDA zones 5 through 8.

Container Gardening

You can plant select cherry trees in containers to decorate porches, patios and walkways, including the Cornelian-cherry trees (Cornus mas) “Alba” and “Flava.” These cherry trees thrive in any type of acidic, well-drained dirt. They adorn your yard with yellow blooms in spring that become white, yellow or gray edible fruit in the summer and also have green leaves which turn red in fall. “Alba” and “Flava” provide moderate to moderately dense colour and develop in USDA zones 5 through 8.

Street Tree or Bonsai

You can plant the cherry trees “Bright N Tight” (P. caroliniana), also known as laurelcherry, and “Hally Jolivette” (P. x “Hally Jolivette”) as street trees or nurture them as bonsai specimens. “Bright N Tight” grows in sites with full sun to full shade in any sort of well-drained dirt. It has evergreen foliage and aromatic white blooms in spring that become black edible fruit, and it rises in zones 8 through 10. “Hally Jolivette” prefers a site with full sun and any sort of well-drained, acidic soil. It produces white or pink blossoms in spring which don’t produce fruit and grows in USDA zones 6 through 8.

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How to Plant Better Boy Tomatoes

“Better Boy” tomatoes are a favorite among home gardeners to get their medium to large red fruits weighing approximately 16 ounces. This highly disease-resistant tomato is an superb addition to any garden, with an ability to resist verticillium and fusarium wilts, alternaria, grey leaf spot and root knot nematodes. “Better Boy” tomatoes reach about 5 feet tall, with an indeterminate growth habit; you can anticipate the very first vegetables 72 to 75 days after placing them in the garden.

Select a sunny, well-draining planting site using a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Amend the top 12 inches of garden soil having 3 to 4 inches of compost using a rototiller or scoop if drainage problems exist. Replace missing nourishment while correcting the drainage if a soil test shows below average results.

Prepare your “Better Boy” tomatoes right before planting in mid-May, when soil temperatures are above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove all but the top one or two pairs of leaves out of your tomato transplant prior to burying about 75 percent of every single plant in holes just wide enough to get every single rootball, spaced 2 to 3 feet apart in 3-foot rows.

Water your transplant thoroughly to settle on the soil, before mulching up the plant into the leaves. Place a cage round the transplant as soon as possible to avoid damaging roots. Continue to include mulch since the plant grows, until the mulch layer is 2 to 4 inches deep. Water weekly, but withhold fertilizer until the tomato plant has already set green fruits which are around the size of a quarter.

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