Browse Category: Home Painting

Unclogging a Fabric Softener Dispenser

The fabric softener dispenser in a washing machine provides”set it and forget it” convenience for laundry day, eliminating the need to wait till just the right moment in order to add softener to the wash load. The more the dispenser is used, the greater the chances it will clog. Some of the fabric softener says , even after the rinse cycle, eventually clogging the dispenser because the liquid melts and cakes in place. Cleaning the dispenser makes it useful once more; determined by the machine version, it may be removable or fixed in place.

Cleaning Removable Dispensers

Eliminate the fabric softener dispenser in the washing machine by simply pressing a release lever, squeezing tabs or simply lifting it out; the particular method varies by make and model.

Scrub the dispenser under tap water.

Set in a wash or skillet tub. Add enough hot water. Mix in a tbsp or two of liquid laundry soap, swirling it. Allow the dispenser to soak for 10 minutes or so, touching the fabric softener buildup to find out whether it’s loosened. If not, soak the dispenser for a second 20 minutes.

Scrub the dispenser under water to remove the fabric softener. In the event the spout does not rinse away on its own, wipe it. Dry the dispenser with a cloth, then place it back into position in the machine.

Cleaning Unremovable Dispensers

Pour water into the dispenser. Add a couple drops of liquid detergent and allow the solution to sit for 10 to 20 minutes.

Flush the dispenser together with water that is warm. If fabric softener is visible inside the toaster, wash it up with a soft fabric and rinse again.

Run the washing machine through a rinse cycle several times, selecting warm water to the rinse. If warm isn’t a rinse option, pour warm water blended with a splash of laundry detergent into the toaster involving rinses to help loosen the buildup.

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Rust & Iron Removal from a Sprinkler System

A sprinkler system can save a great deal of time if you use it in order to take over the task of watering your lawn and flowerbeds. In a irrigation system, however, their rust and iron residue can build up over time, causing water to leave stains on home, concrete or stone surfaces. It is a problem for a system which runs well water. Fortunately, the buildup can be removed from the irrigation system.

Cleaning the Sprinkler Head

Eliminating and only a few supplies are required by their rust from a sprinkler head. An simple and effective elimination system is to put the sprinkler head into a freezer bag and cover it with a mineral and rust remover. Then remover sits on the sprinkler head for about 30 minutes, use a brass-bristle brush wash the sprinkler head with clear water, then to remove rust and iron residue from the sprinkler head. The sprinkler head is then prepared to be reattached to the sprinkler system.

Neutralizing Water’s Iron

A tank could be attached to a sprinkler system and release each time to a certain chemical the machine is used by you. The iron of the water neutralizes, instead of eliminates it, preventing the water from leaving rust stains. Alternatively, install a filter to display iron from your irrigation system’s water resource.

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The Way to Repair a Chipped Concrete Birdbath

Small chips in concrete birdbaths are bound to happen even with gentle care, particularly since the real ages and becomes more fragile. While the chip may not be noticeable or appear to require repair, the continuous exposure to water may gradually wash the concrete away, eventually making a small chip even bigger. All you will need is a fast patch concrete epoxy to fill in the chip, with no complex masonry experience required. A quick-setting epoxy means you can make the repair and use the birdbath at the same moment.

Wash the concrete around the chip with warm, soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Brush away any loose concrete with a stiff wire brush. Allow the concrete to dry completely prior to bringing the birdbath indoors in a well-ventilated space.

Brush a thin layer of bonding glue onto the chipped area, if necessary, with the concrete patch. Read the concrete patch label carefully since this may not be required. In many cases, a bundle of bonding adhesive is included with the patch.

Mix the two parts of the concrete patch epoxy, a resin and a hardener, in equal parts, with only as much as required to fill in the chip.

Use the epoxy to the chip with a putty knife or similar instrument, using the knife to adhere to the birdbath’s contour as much as possible.

Allow about two hours for the epoxy to cure at room temperature. Quick patch concrete epoxy usually only takes two hours to heal, but read the label for particular curing times.

Sand the epoxy smooth with coarse, 80-grit sandpaper and then finer 120-grit seams to remove any rough edges and blend it with the remainder of the birdbath. Brush away all sanding debris or rinse with water.

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The way to Get Rid of Sensors in Patio Cracks

Plants will grow anywhere they find water, sunlight and dirt. This contains the spaces between individual pavers, stones or stones in a terrace. Plants growing in terrace cracks make the area appear unkempt and unsightly. If the weeds keep growing, they might move paver blocks or trigger other types of patio substances to break or move. Using natural methods to eliminate these weeds means you’re not introducing chemicals into the area and you have less chance of damaging the terrace.

Fill a pot or teakettle three-fourths full of water. Bring the water to a boil on the stove.

Wear a set of closed-toe shoes and oven mitts. Clear any objects from the ground or ground between the cooker and the terrace. Preserve the container of boiling water into your patio, walking slowly so that you do not spill water.

Stand or crouch down to the side of the weeds growing between the patio pavers, leaving space between your feet and the weeds to prevent splashing your feet. Hold the container 3 to 5 inches above the weeds. Pour the water from the container gradually over the weeds, then avoiding splashing the water on your own. Keep your hands, arms and face away from the steam.

Repeat this procedure till you’ve poured boiling water on all of the weeds. Don’t stand or walk on the moist terrace areas while the water is warm. Leave the weeds for 24 hours.

Boil more water and then pour it on any plants that still appear healthy following 24 hours. Check again 24 hours later.

Grasp each grass by its crown, the point at which the shriveled shoots meet the root system. Pull up while lightly twisting the crown to remove the bud and its whole root system from the patio. Wear gloves when pulling weeds. For stubborn weeds, then use a dandelion weeder instrument.

Place all the removed weeds in the garden trash can. Sweep the terrace, gathering any broken stalks, roots, sand or dirt into a stack. Brush the debris into a shovel or dust pan and then dump them in the garden waste can.

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How Long Does It Take to Prep & Paint a Porch?

The exterior surfaces of your home are routinely exposed to harsh elements such as rain, direct sunlight, natural deterioration and aging. Your porch is your entryway into your home and the first impression that guests visit. Clean your porch on a regular basis and paint annually to keep it looking like new.

Prepping the Palestinians

Pressure-wash or thoroughly sweep the surface to get rid of dirt, dirt and leaves, and utilize a porch cleaner to remove mold, mildew and other stains. Take your time when prepping the surface that can take a couple of hours to an entire day depending on the size and status of the porch. Let the porch dry for 24 hours before applying paint.

Painting the Porch

The time that it takes to paint a porch is dependent on several factors — the size and status of the porch, just how many people are helping, and the weather conditions. Take your time and apply paint and primer each of the manufacturer’s directions — many porches require two coats of paint. Based on help and the size of your porch, then that will take a day or even an entire weekend to complete. Wait 48 hours before placing plants and furniture back onto it.

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Issues With Epoxy Pool Paint

Turquoise or aquamarine painted pools offer the illusion of a tropical oasis. But when the epoxy paint begins to peel, bubble or crack, there’s trouble paradise. While epoxy paint is the most durable kind of pool paint, even if the pool is badly prepared or the paint is not applied well, problems can happen.

Preparing for Epoxy

Epoxy paints form a tough, water- and also chemical-resistant finish, making them a durable paint choice for swimming pools Correctly applied, epoxy paint can last seven to ten decades. But even with recently painted pools, problems with epoxy paint can stem from improper preparation of the surface to be painted. Remove loose paint and dirt from the pool first by water-blasting the pool walls and floor. Surfaces which were formerly painted with epoxy as well as unpainted fiberglass will need to get abraded with sandpaper to help the epoxy paint adhere. Cleaning the pool with a trisodium phosphate solution farther removes oil and dirt. The pool must be completely dry before it’s painted.

Fading Away

The vibrant Caribbean blue of a pool’s walls can fade after several years of exposure to harsh pool chemicals and glowing sunlight. If the pool paint has become dull, but is intact, a light acid wash can clean off dirt which makes the paint appear faded.

Speaking about Chalking

As time passes, paint can break down, releasing tiny particles into the pool water which can make it and also the pool surfaces seem dull and hazy. This deterioration is known as chalking because like chalk from a chalkboard, the deposits rubs off pool walls and floors and onto swimmers. Chalking can be avoided by maintaining the pool’s alkalinity in the ideal assortment of 150 to 200 parts per million. Low alkalinity causes pool paint to chalk. Use a compound pool shock which is not too harsh, like lithium or di-chloro.

Peeling Is not Appealing

Pool paint can peel and blister as a result of improper preparation of the pool’s surfaces. If the pool has not been washed and dried before painting, blistering can occur. These problems can also happen if the pool is painted too thickly or the surfaces to be painted are hot. Spots which have blistered could be repainted without undermining the entire pool.

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The way to Use Oil Based Paint Cabinets

It isn’t always quick, but utilizing vinyl paint is an affordable means to switch the look of an entire room and freshen up old cupboards. Utilizing an oil-based paint not only keeps them looking fine, but also shields the cupboards and also makes them easier to clean. The painting process may take somewhat longer compared to latex paints, but as long as it’s done right, the paint will also stay bright and chip-free for more.

Remove all of the handles, pulls and decorative hardware in the cupboards by unscrewing them in the back.

Lightly sand the cupboards with 100 or 120-grit sandpaper. This may smooth the timber if it’s unfinished and give the paint a better surface to stick to if the cupboards were painted.

Clean the cabinets thoroughly with TSP cleaner if they’ve been previously used or painted. Remove all the grease, dirt and dirt, so the new coat of paint can stick. If the cupboards are new, wipe them down with a damp cloth to remove any dust or wood shavings.

Tape off any molding, trim, countertops, walls or other places adjoining the cupboards where you don’t want paint.

Apply a coat of oil-based primer to the cupboards utilizing a natural-bristle paintbrush. The primer must be oil-based, not water-based, for the oil-based paint to stick properly.

Wait about 24 hours to get the primer to dry. Oil-based primers take longer to dry than water-based ones.

Apply a coat of oil-based paint utilizing a natural-bristle brush.

Wait about 24 hours for the first coat to dry.

Sand any drip marks or imperfections with 220-grit sandpaper. Use a very gentle circular movement to avoid damaging the paint.

Wipe down the cupboards with a damp cloth to remove any dust or sandpaper grit.

Apply another coat of oil-based paint.

Remove the painter’s tape.

Wait 24 hours for the paint to dry completely.

Replace knobs, handles, pulls and some other hardware.

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How to Straighten Out Curtains

Curtains add all kinds of great things to a space, from visual interest to delicate shade and solitude, but they occasionally seem to get a mind of their own. No matter how often you tug on them, then they insist on hanging slightly askew. Curtains behave this way for a variety of motives, but with some investigative work and a little bit of imagination you can get them back on the straight and narrow.


Whenever your curtains are hanging twisted, the error may not be with your curtains, but with the curtain pole. The best way to make certain is to place a carpenter’s level on top of the curtain and check to confirm that the bubble is centered. If it is not, you’ll want to look at the brackets to see if one of these is loose. When they’re tight, loosen the screws on tap and one on the bracket lightly with a mallet to move it up or down until the bubble at the level is on true. Tightening the screws on the brackets need to ensure that the curtain pole remains level.


Mirrors which get opened and closed a lot can develop wrinkles that keep them from hanging straight. 1 way to repair this it to carry your curtains down and wash them if they’re machine washable. If they are not, shake them out to remove any dust that may have settled on them. Put your curtains wrong side up on your ironing board and press on the creases and wrinkles out with an iron set at the appropriate heat for the curtain material. Placing a dish towel or pillowcase in addition to the cloth can stop damage if it has a synthetic lining or is extremely fragile.


Sometimes keeping your curtains too tidy can contribute their hanging oddly. Washing can weaken or even remove the sizing that retains drapes sharp. This is particularly true of lightweight sheers. You can place the body back in your curtains by making homemade starch from cornstarch and water. After a good soaking in starchy water, then hang the curtains to dry and iron them or give them a quick spin in a cool dryer with no fabric softener sheet to give them a crisp appearance and the body to hang properly.


Back in the day, royals maintained their skirts from exposing state secrets by having the palace seamstresses sew weights to the hems. If your curtains are hanging crookedly since a number of those threads have shrunk while some haven’t, it is possible to open the hem only enough to slip in weights. The small, metal weight can help pull the curtains down to hang evenly.

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How to repair a Conservatory Roof

A conservatory, also called a sunroom, is a space connected to the bright side of a home that has clear walls and roof that let the sun shine in. Homeowners use conservatories to grow flowers and other plants or for outdoorlike entertaining. A frequent reason for conservatory escapes is deterioration of the seals around the transparent roof panes. Oftentimes, you can reseal the roof rims yourself.

Find Leak

First, analyze the conservatory’s roof in the inside to determine where it is leaking. The best time to do so is when it is raining. Most leaks occur around the edges of the transparent roof panes. If yours is a slanted roof, look carefully. The place where the water drips may not be the place where it is coming in. Once you’ve identified the leaking pane, then you can reseal it with a flexible glass sealing material rated for exterior use.

Scrape Out Old Seal

Lay a ladder against the outside framework of the conservatory so that you can achieve the leaking pane. Gently scrape out the old seal stuff along the edges of the transparent panel with a utility knife, lift the panel and clean all traces of the old sealant in the framework. Put a bead of the newest sealant in the frame, press the clear panel back in place and apply a bead of the sealant around the outer edges. Follow manufacturer instructions regarding putting or drying times to the sealant.

Cracked Pane

If the existing pane is cracked or broken, then apply tape across the pane in several instructions to hold the pieces together while you eliminate the bad pane. Eliminate the old sealant in the framework. Cut a new pane to match the measurements of the old pane, then apply sealant to the frame, set in the new pane and apply more sealant around the outside of the framework.

Leak Sealing

An alternate fix for escapes entails applying a sealant round the leaking pane without undermining it. Climb the ladder to achieve the leaking pane, then remove all debris and dirt, spray window cleaner on the leaking area and wipe clean with a soft fabric. Apply a flexible exterior glass sealant over the leaking area and allow to dry. Wipe the area clean with a soft fabric.

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How to guard the Inside Part of Kitchen Cabinets

To maintain your kitchen’s upper cabinets looking good, lightweight shelf paper on the seams, and creating a habit of drying any wetness off of dishware you might shop there, may be all you need. Protecting the seams of lower cabinets is more of a challenge, however. Leaks, spills and regular use can damage the surface of the cabinet bottoms and even raise the danger of mold and mildew growth. With proper care and maintenance, it is possible to protect the insides of your lower cabinets and preserve their condition.

Start Fresh

If the insides of the kitchen cabinets have already suffered any damage, repair them. Placing a protective covering over existing spills or leaks can trap moisture and create a breeding ground for mold and mildew. Under-sink cabinets are especially prone to water damage, but fluid and food can splash anywhere at a kitchen. Clean spills with household detergent and a damp cloth and dry the cabinet thoroughly with a fan. If you discover a little bit of mold in the cabinets, put on a protective mask and eliminate the mold by wiping and scrubbing the area down with a bleach alternative. Apply a coat of mildew-cide paint to the bottom to prevent future mold growth. If you suspect your cabinets have a significant mold infestation, then consult with a specialist.

Choose a Liner

A kitchen lower cabinets typically serve several distinct functions. The cabinets under the sink typically hold household cleaners. Another cabinets might be utilized to store pots and pans, small appliances or cupboard items. Pick a liner for every single cabinet that provides the protection it needs. Non-adhesive liners, which is removed for cleaning, can be found in a variety of fashions. To get under-sink cabinets, choose a waterproof liner with a smooth feel that you may wipe easily. Use a padded liner to protect the base of a cabinet that houses heavy cookware or canned products. In cabinets that have light use, adhesive-backed paper produces a protective surface that’s affordable and simple to clean. Vinyl tiles provide lasting, heavy-duty protection for cabinet seams, though installation requires some DIY skills.

Install Drawers and Shelves

Liners protect the seams of the kitchen cabinets by spills, dents and scrapes, but a closet storage system also reduces the danger of damage. In deep cabinets, install sliding cable drawers to hold pots and pans. The drawers allow easy entry to heavy cookware without pulling it over the floor of the cabinets. If you use your kitchen lower cabinets as a pantry, outfit them with wire shelves which permit you to store and stack items without creating the prospect of a damaging avalanche of jars and cans. The plumbing in under-sink cabinets makes them vulnerable to moisture from leaks and condensation. You’ll have to be vigilant for water problems in this area, but you can decrease the danger of spill damage from keeping cleaning products in plastic bins.

Keep Them Clean

No way of protecting the interior of your kitchen cabinet is foolproof. Liquids can make their way round the borders of liners and into the gaps between vinyl tiles. Over time, shelf liners may become less successful. To maintain your lower cabinets safe from damage, address any problems as they arise. Check the liners periodically and replace them once they show signs of tear and wear. If spills — which are unavoidable in a kitchen — occur, wipe them up and make sure stains and moisture don’t seep through the liner to the surface of the cabinet seams. The under-sink cabinets require special vigilance. Repair any leaking pipes immediately and continually be on the lookout for mold and mildew.

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