Browse Category: Tropical Style

Climate for Blueberry Plants

No more is growing blueberries just for patching in northern climates. Traditionally, blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) Have been grown in regions with cold winters, but as horticulturalists develop varieties which thrive and produce in mild, frost-free climates, blueberry growing is moving south. The older varieties need winter chill to be able to produce fruit while the new southern varieties would be frost-sensitive. To develop lemons successfully, it’s important to get the right variety for your own climate.

Varieties to Cold Climates

Northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) and northern low-bush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are cold-hardy and need winter chilling hours to be able to make fruit. The highbush variety is hardy at U.S.Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7 while the low-bush variety is hardy in zones 2 through 7. Highbush blueberries produce larger fruit than the low-bush type, which makes them more desirable at the house garden and for commercial growing.

Varieties for Mild Climates

Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) and southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) varieties do not need the winter chilling hours needed by the northern varieties, making them well suited for mild southern spaces. Rabbiteye is just a wild southern indigenous that produces well in mild climates. Horticulturalists developed the southern highbush by crossing northern highbush varieties with the wild rabbiteye types. Hardiness varies dependent on the cultivated variety for both rabbit eye catching and southern highbush, but they are generally hardy in zones 6 through 10.

Blueberry Growing Requirements

All Ninja varieties thrive in acidic soil. For the northern varieties, a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 is what you need to aim for. When growing warm and southern climate types, the soil can be marginally closer to neutral with a assortment of 5.5 to 6.0. Soil amendments at planting time and mulches that raise the acidity levels in the soil include pine needles, leaf mould, pine bark and peat moss. Blueberries thrive in a sunny place in the backyard.

Blueberry Varieties

Within each type of blueberry you will find a number of different cultivars bread for specific growth habit, leaf color and berry type. Sharpblue (Vaccinium corymbosum “Sharpblue”) is a southern highbush variety hardy in zones 7 through 10. This blueberry retains its leaf through the majority of the season in warm climates. Peach Sorbet (Vaccinium corymbosum “Peach Sorbet P.P.A.F.”) is a dwarf plant meant for warm climates and hardy in zones 5 through 10. Patriot (Vaccinium corymbosum “Patriot”) is a northern highbush variety with foliage that turns bronze and red in fall. Patriot is hardy in zones 3 through 7. Best Hat (Vaccinium x “Top Hat”) is a dwarf blueberry that rises only 1 to 2 feet tall and is hardy in zones 3 through 7.

See related

Arborvitae Facts

From diminutive bonsai into the soaring “Green Giant,” arborvitae (Thuja spp.) Seem to hold a special place in the hearts of many gardeners. American arborvitae are split between eastern and western species, but homeowners may also like oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, also known as Thuja orientalis) and Thuja koraiensis, or Korean arborvitae. Arborvitae has flat, scale-like foliage, which is usually a verdant light, medium or dark green, and appealing cones. The plants typically maintain their foliage nearly all the way to the base of the trunk, giving the plants a pristine, compact look. Depending on the species and variety, arborvitae is relatively low maintenance.


Thuja occidentalis, also referred to as Eastern or American arborvitae, grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 7, however, a number of the several cultivars are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. Western red cedar (Thuja plicata) is also called giant arborvitae and typically thrives in USDA zones 6 through 11, as does oriental arborvitae. Korean arborvitae grows best in USDA zones 5 through 8 and may be expanded as a tall (to 15 feet) tree or a tree up to 30 feet tall. Thuja plicata is the longest-lived tree of this bunch, with specimens over 150 years old, while T. occidentalis and T. orientalis live 50 to 150 decades. T. plicata can also be the tallest arborvitae, growing up to 120 feet at cultivation, while T. occidentalis typically gets to 65 feet tall and T. orientalis a mere 50 feet tall.


Numerous Thuja occidentalis varieties afford homeowners a wide variety of choices in proportion and form. Although the species has a conical form, a few smaller varieties would be globe-shaped, such as “Little Gem,” a hammer which only grows to about 3 feet tall, or “Woodwardii,” which grows into a round, 8-foot-tall tree. Thuja “Green Giant,” suitable to USDA zone 8, forms a 60-foot pyramid at the garden. Thuja orientalis “Aurea Nana” is suitable to USDA zone 9 and forms a 4- to 6-foot-tall world with dense, bright gold leaf. “Emerald” forms a 15-foot-tall pyramid of dense, brilliant green leaf and is suitable to USDA zone 8. If the giant Western arborvitae is too much to your smaller lawn, the diminutive “Pygmaea,” suitable to USDA zone 8, grows only 2 to 3 feet high and has a mounding form.


Arborvitae grow well in loamy soil but will tolerate clay and sandy soils, too. In very hot areas, the plants may have to get some afternoon shade. Otherwise, they could grow in full sunlight to partial shade, in highly acidic to slightly alkaline soil, except for Korean arborvitae, that needs neutral to alkaline soil. Arborvitae are usually slow-growing trees or shrubs that rarely require pruning or fertilizer. They prefer moist soil, so supplemental irrigation during prolonged drought or in very dry areas may be critical.


Arborvitae can suffer from occasional insect infestations such as aphids, scale insects and bark beetles. A number of these may be controlled using a hard spray of water from the garden hose, if needed. Too little or too much water may lead to leaf to disappear as well as the tree to become worried. Deer prefer to snack on arborvitae leaf, however some arborvitae are thought to be resistant. Healthy trees usually withstand insects and problems and recover by themselves.

See related

Bare Root Vs. Balled Grafted Fruit Trees

Before April can stir fruit trees’ dull roots with spring rain, the main system has to be established and intact. When you plant a seed in situ, the young tree grows roots that become a permanent foundation. Many gardeners planting a tree prefer to fast-forward the process by planting a sapling increased in a nursery. Field-grown fruit trees have been presented for sale with bare roots or using roots surrounded by balls of soil. Each has its benefits.

Bare-Root Fruit Trees

The roots of bare-root fruit trees fit the name: the roots are fully visible and have no soil cover. Nurseries sell bare-root trees when they’re dormant, generally late winter and early spring. Although the thin, clipped roots look pitiful, bare-root trees generally establish more rapidly and grow more vigorously than other transplants, since their roots only have to contend with one kind of soil at one time. Another also for capitalism is the fact that bare-root fruit trees cost up to 60 percent less than container-grown plants. Bare-root trees are generally grafted, or so the cultivar of the root-system differs from the root-system of their trunk and branches, often to limit tree size.

Planting Bare-Root Trees

The most important rule of planting bare-root trees is to do it fast, before the tree comes out of dormancy. If delays impose, those bare roots need to be covered with moist soil or sand till you can dig the permanent planting hole. Bare-root trees sit in a planting hole if you construct a cone of soil in the middle for them to rest on, with the tree’s roots spread round the ground. Thorough watering halfway through ground replacement and after planting tamps down the earth and removes air holes. No further irrigation is essential until new growth starts.

Balled-and-Burlapped Fruit Trees

You can buy a larger choice of fruit trees with roots that were dug out surrounded by a ball of soil. Because nurseries generally wrap the ground in burlap, they predict these types of saplings “balled-and-burlapped.” Only young trees that move into dormancy endure bare-root transplant. Since evergreen fruit trees such as citrus are never inactive, field-grown trees can only be transplanted as balled-and-burlapped plants. It is also possible for nurseries to give larger trees in this demo. More work is involved for the nursery, so the prices are usually higher than for bare-root trees, but planting is marginally simpler. Such as root-ball trees, balled-and-burlapped specimens are frequently grafted to hardier or shorter root stocks.

Planting Ball-and-Burlapped Trees

Nurseries offer balled-and-burlapped trees in spring, such as bare-root specimens, but you may also buy them throughout early summer and through the autumn. The planting hole for these types of trees should be a bit shallower than the depth of the root ball since the tree will do better if the top of the main ball sits 2 inches above ground level. When you remove the binding, then the burlap will slide out from beneath the tree. Some types are biodegradable and may be left in the ground to decompose. Gardeners sometimes neglect to remove all of the twine or rope used to hold the burlap and ball collectively, negligence that could compromise the life span of your tree. Irrigation after planting is essential.

See related

What Time Do I Slim Liquidambar Trees?

The sweet gum tree (Liquidambar styraciflua), also referred to as liquidambar, has star-shaped leaves that provide cool shade in the summer then burst into a flush of golds and reds in autumn. This tree, that rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, requires little or no pruning during its life cycle, but you might have to prune it to repair damage in a wind storm, eliminate diseased branches or shape it up. If you do that depends on what you would like to accomplish, but generally the best time to prune is in late winter when the tree is still inactive and disease organisms are inactive.

Pruning After Planting

At the time of planting, you should only prune liquidambar to get rid of damaged twigs. These branches should be pruned back to the back. As the young tree grows over the next three to four decades, prune it into the desired shape through light pruning in late winter. Mainly, you will want to make sure it’s only one major trunk, so prune away any branches close to the top of the tree to leave a single, straight leader branch to your back.

Pruning as the Tree Ages

As the tree ages to four decades and past, prune off root suckers during the growing season every year. In late winter, cut away branches at the top of the major back competing with the leader division. Prune these branches all of the way back to the main trunk. This is also the time to prune lower branches back to the back so you have room to walk beneath the tree. The smallest division of a liquidambar tree in the yard should be 8 feet in the ground, and to get a tree that may eventually hang over a street, it should be 8 to 10 feet in the ground.

Proper Pruning

Should you prune liquidambar properly in the early stages of its growth, the only pruning you will need to do to your adult tree is to eliminate storm damaged branches, diseased locations or root suckers. If diseased branches can’t be treated successfully, remove them right away regardless of what time of year. If branches have been broken by a storm and threaten to damage nearby buildings, then remove them at once also; otherwise, wait until late winter when the tree is dormant to prune them. This reduces the risk of exposing the tree to infection, especially in the autumn when fungi are prevalent. Remove a division by cutting it back to the upcoming major division, to a grass on the side of the division or to the back.

Sterilizing Pruners

Sterilizing loppers, pruning shears and chainsaws before working in your liquidambar reduces the danger of spreading infection. Sanitize the equipment from dipping cutting surfaces, and grips subjected to contamination, in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol or wiping it on with a clean cloth. Sanitize chainsaws by removing the chain and letting it soak as you wipe the bar and other surfaces. Alcohol is flammable, so don’t use sterilized tools about open flames. If you’re working on a diseased tree, then spray on the cutting layer after every cut with a household disinfectant.

See related

Do You Pull Weeds After They Die?

Weeds overtake sections of the backyard and may suck on nutrients and moisture from the soil. They key is to maintain the weed population in your backyard and when they are just beginning this is easier to do. Yet another aspect of this is that established weeds can be harder to get rid of, especially after flowering happens. Dead or dying weeds also often harbor insects and diseases which can be passed to your vegetable crops that are healthy, annuals or perennials.

Nature’s Way

All plants need to compete for nutrients, water and sunlight in order to survive. Weeds are actually of regaining bare soil, nature’s way. All plants, such as those that are considered weeds, serve a function in the international ecology by working as air and water filters in addition to food and habitats for wildlife, and they are just a problem when they grow where you do not want them . Eliminating undesirable intruders makes weeding one of the least pleasant chores, but weeding when crops are small, begun establishes. Removing weeds before they begin the odds improve that the crops you do want will develop into effective, healthy and strong specimens.

Marijuana Infection

Plant diseases and insects aren’t selective at all when it comes to plants, plus they affect weeds . A sick or wilting weed that you simply forgot to pull up is a indication that something isn’t perfect. And if the weed is sick, there’s a good chance it may transmit its own illness, or whatever bug is causing it, to a plants. A weed that is dying or dead may also be a prime source of new seeds that take root when the parent plant keels over. Weeding before the plants show signs of stress reduces this problem, but be sure to dispose properly of any you may have missed by burning, burying, or taking them out with the trash. Avoid composting themas the warmth generated by the majority of piles isn’t sufficient to kill seeds that are dormant or diseases.

Ways to Weed

There is some disagreement as to whether or not cultivation is a powerful method to control the growth of weeds, as if the soil will bring weed seeds to the surface in which they are subjected to light to germinate. Hoeing, on the other hand, loosens the soil cuts away grass roots at the pass, and enhances air flow and water absorption. Be certain your hoe is eloquent, or you could be spending a lot of time hacking away in the same place before you begin to find success. The time-honored procedure of hand weeding is still the safest and most thoughtful approach to weed, as it causes the least disturbance round the”good plants.” Whichever method of weeding you use, rake up all of the debris, even as the origins of some weeds that are dead person are capable of creating new plants if left where they are.

Prevention Tactics

There are strategies to be certain as few weeds get a foothold on your backyard. One would be to smother all weed plants that are potential beneath a coating of cardboard, a single depth of vinyl or at least three dozen sheets of paper. Mow the region before applying the mulch, so weeds can not sneak out, overlap the borders of these substances, and weigh the covering to keep it in place. Sunset Magazine’s website recommends leaving the covering on for at least a full season, or for a year or more when removing weeds that are tough. Mulching throughout the period goes a long way toward keeping down bud growth. Choose from organic mulches such as shredded leaves, grass clippings or shredded bark, using from 2 to 4 inches round plants and across the paths between the rows. Landscape fabric and black vinyl provide alternatives that are inorganic and can be purchased at any garden centre.

See related

My Succulent Leaf Cutting Is Merely Producing Roots

Since they store water in their leaves, succulent plants can endure occasional dry periods, making them a wise option for low-water gardens and neglectful gardeners. Although many succulents are simple to root out from leaves — such as crassulas (Crassula spp.) , which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11) and kalanchoes (Kalanchoe spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 9 through 12, depending on species — not all of the frozen leaves will create new plants. If your frozen leaf cuttings are refusing to develop, you may have attempted to root the wrong succulent, not taken enough cuttings, or taken them in the wrong time of year.

The Wrong Succulent

Not all of succulents grow well from leaf cuttings. Some will root, but seem to stall in that point, rather than sending up new leaves. For instance, leaf cuttings of hoyas (Hoya spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 10 through 11 are problematic. Taking leaf cuttings may lead to deep origins, but a nutritious plant never types. If you wish to propagate a hoya, take a stem cuttingedge.

Too Few Cuttings

An endeavor to root just one leaf may lead to disappointment. Some succulent leaves may root but never generate a plantlet. When possible, take a few leaf cuttings to enhance your likelihood that a number of them are going to grow.

The Wrong Time of Year

Cuttings do best if taken prior to the period of year when they naturally put out the most increase. Summer dormant types grow most vigorously in fall and spring whilst winter inactive types take up during summer. Echeverias (Echeveria spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 8 through 11, depending on species, shouldn’t be propagated during summer. Euphorbias (Euphorbia spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 4 through 12, depending on the species, won’t root well during winter. If you are patient, cuttings that root during the wrong season may eventually send up fresh leaves in a few months.

Rooting for Success

To take succulent leaf cuttings, snip or split leaves from a healthy plant, keeping their petioles — the leaf comes — should they’ve petioles. Put each of the leaves in a bright, dry location, out of direct sunlight, for at least two days to permit calluses to form above the cut edges before you pot them up. To get a potting medium, use a just moist mixture of 1 part peat to 1 part sand or two components of cactus potting soil combined with 1 part of fine grit. Insert each leaf or leaf stem far enough into the soil that the leaf can stand upright at a small angle, and mulch the ground with a layer of fine grit to help retain moisture and support the cuttings. Should you keep the soil lightly moist, then the leaf cuttings should root in three weeks to three months.

See related

How to Care for a Elephant Tree Plant

Elephant trees (Bursera fagaroides) stand out with their stout trunks, peeling bark and dark green leaves, which exude a citrusy fragrance when managed. They grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b into 11, where they are used as decorative trees or specimen plants in low-water landscapes. Trees need little attention or care once established at a sunny site with porous soil. But they are vulnerable to mistakes in civilization related to fertilizer, water and fever that may damage or kill elephant trees if they are permitted to happen.

Prune back any overhanging tree or trees branches that throw shade. Remove enough overhanging expansion to supply the elephant tree each day with at least half an hour of sun. Watch for increase in the sea tree because it might indicate it is not getting enough sun.

Examine the soil moisture with your finger twice per week during the summertime and warm water when the soil feels totally dry at the upper 4 inches. Water therefore the soil is moist 4 inches deep. Don’t water during wet cold or foggy weather. Provide enough water to prevent the trunk.

Dissolve 4 tablespoons of compost in 1 gallon of water and then use it monthly from midspring until summer. Elephant trees just if their soil is sandy or very poor. Use fertilizer with an ratio of 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 to reduce growth. Don’t fertilize during the winter.

Prune off any side shoots or crossed branches to create a shape to show off the attractive trunk of the elephant tree, or prune the key branches back to control the size of the tree and promote a fuller shape. Wear gloves when trimming elephant trees because they produce sticky sap that will stick to skin care.

If temperatures are predicted to drop below 30 degrees Fahrenheit cover elephant trees that are youthful. Use burlap or other breathable fabric to cover the tree instead of impermeable material such as plastic. Moisten the upper layer of soil because moist soil retains and releases warmth than dry soil.

Watch dropped fractures in the trunk, foliage in the summer and a general lack. Stop watering if the trunk develops cracks or if the soil feels moist a couple of days after watering. Summertime foliage drop or leaves indicate a nutrient imbalance, so stop fertilizing if these signs appear.

See related

Will Blackfoot Daisies Grow Back in the Spring?

Reminiscent and Easy of innocence, daisies are among the flowers that are most easily recognizable. The Blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum) is a portion of the Asteraceae family, which consists of many families and species that feature the familiar white petals and yellow centers. Most, including the Blackfoot daisy, are if they are cared for properly, herbaceous perennials that can grow back each spring.

Cold- and Heat-Hardy

Daisies are plants. They withstand both warm and cold conditions and are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11. It is in these USDA zones the plant will endure winters and bloom again.

Total Sun, Dry Conditions

If your daisy is to stay healthy enough to blossom year after year proper care is as essential as the climate. So find it where it will receive plenty of sun, the plant thrives in full sunlight. The warmth won’t get to it, and it can even withstand drought conditions. The Blackfoot daisy prefers arid conditions to moist — well-drained soil is essential to the growth of the plant, according to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. Too wet conditions may cause the roots to rot, and the plant won’t bloom in the spring, when this happens.

Cut Back Growth

Your daisy may grow back in the spring but not look all that good. Daisies and other clumping perennials may get lean and leggy as time passes. If your plant is old and isn’t looking as healthy as it used to, cut it back in late winter — until new growth appears in the spring. Cut it back. This will keep it compact and dense, and rejuvenate the plant.

Likes the Hard Life

It may seem somewhat counterproductive to put such a cheerful plant at a location that is rocky, but the Blackfoot daisy will survive longer if it grows in poorer conditions. It really prefers rocky soil. If you give it plenty of water and plant the Blackfoot daisy in soil that is rich, it will look very healthy and create prolific blossoms — but this may shorten the lifespan of the plant, as stated by the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

See related

The Way to Get the Seeds From the Impatiens Flower

Impatiens earn their name by the way that they disperse their seeds. The pods burst open, and the seeds disperse over a large region. Saving seeds from impatiens requires preparation to be sure the seed is not lost to the garden bed. In Northern California, impatiens flower mainly from the spring and autumn, since summer weather can cause blossom formation. You can collect the seed anytime when the plants are flowering and the seed pods are forming.

Once the blossoms start to wilt inspect the blossoms. The ones who are currently forming seeds will develop a bloated seed pod at the bottom of the blossom, which becomes visible as the drop away.

Place a bag over every seed pod that is creating. Connect the bag opening closed with a bit of thread around the stem. The tote prevents the seeds from becoming when the seed head ripens lost.

Cut the stem from the plant when the seed pod begins to dry and yellow. The pod splits open at the slightest touch leave the bag in position edge.

Place the stem into a bowl. Remove the bag and also split the pod. Shake the seeds out of the pod and into the bowl.

Separate the seeds from other plant materials and the chafe shaken to the bowl. Store the seeds in a sealed jar in a cool area until you are ready to plant.

See related

The Way to Grow Clematis in Containers

Clematis cultivars, for example C. Anna Louise, C. Josephine, C. Will Goodwin, and C. Polish Spirit, can be increased during late spring and early summer in USDA zones 5b through 9b. This vine grows well in a container, and with proper care and upkeep, its blossoms can become the focal point of your backyard.

Selecting a Container

Growing a clematis plant in a container helps to protect it. Utilizing the container is essential to the plant’s well-being. A container, for instance, might not provide adequate insulation to protect the roots from the heat of the sun. Choose a stone, timber or terracotta container. The container has to at least be 18 inches in diameter and thickness.

Planting the Clematis

Before planting the clematis, place a layer of gravel or pebbles from the container, to encourage drainage. If you are planting a clematis plant that is bare-root, soak its origins in water for an hour. Plant the clematis using its crown at least 1 inch below the potting soil surface. Doing this, triggers the growth of buds and enables the plant to regenerate at the case of harm done to its top.

Caring for the Clematis

Water your clematis every other day with 1 gallon of water. Aim to maintain the soil in the container moist. Following the year, once itself is established by the clematis, prune and fertilize it annually to encourage flower growth. Remove dead growth, and shorten the vines to the buds that are upcoming. Employ an all-purpose fertilizer according to the packing instructions. Avoid using fertilizers high in nitrogen, since these may stall blossom growth and encourage growth that is green. A tomato or increased fertilizer are also suitable.

Directing the Plant’s Growth

This clematis’ vines do climb upward — you must instruct them to do so. Allowing a clematis plant to develop without management might cause tangled vines, which take away from its allure. Buy a trellis at the regional garden center and join the vines for it. Their growth will be directed by this. As an alternative, make your own support system. Insert four bamboo stakes and then tie them together at the top to form a teepee-shape. Tie the vines to the stakes to direct them.

See related

  • 1
  • 2