Materials Needed to Lay Mexican Tile

Mexican vinyl, also referred to as saltillo, is made from red clay. It occasionally has vibrant glazed patterns, but it more commonly the traditional rosy-orange terracotta colour such as a clay pot. Most Mexican tile has a rustic look with significant variations from 1 tile to the next, both in thickness and in how square the tile is. If you’re very lucky, you might find some tiles with a puppy paw print inserted into the clay out of where the tiles were put on the floor to dry. Mexican tile installation resembles the procedure for installing ceramic tiles, however there are a number of very important differences.

Getting Started

When laying Mexican vinyl above a concrete or concrete slab, fill any cracks with concrete patch compound to keep the tile from breaking should the cracks spread over time. Floor tile shouldn’t be installed directly onto timber. If the foundation is timber, screw down a coating of cement plank sheets to prevent cracks that could occur when the wood automatically moves, swells or shrinks under different conditions. A tape measure, a roofing or carpenter’s square and a chalk line are utilized to mark the starting point for laying the tile. First, assess the room from corner to corner diagonally in both directions. If both dimensions are equal, the room is square, meaning that the corners are ideal 90-degree angles. If the dimensions are unequal, which is often true, the area is not square, and perimeter tile cuts will probably be inevitable. Then snap diagonal chalk lines in the very same corners to produce an x, with the center of the x being the center of this room. This is where tile installation should start.

Putting the Tile

A 1/2-inch notched trowel is essential for dispersing the tile adhesive, either thinset or mortar, evenly on the outside to anchor the tile. Concrete slabs and concrete board can wick moisture from the adhesive too fast, causing it to fail. Mist water on the foundation as you use the adhesive to help slow the curing time. Tile spacers can help create even grout lines, although they might not be necessary as a result of tile’s handmade imperfections, but which are a part of its charm. A damp sponge helps eliminate adhesive that contacts the upper surface of the tile. If the tiles aren’t sealed prior to installation, extreme caution is necessary to prevent the mortar or thinset from touching the surface. Once dry, even small amounts can adhere permanently. With a Bachelor’s degree guarantees the tile is resting parallel to the bottom surface. As you approach the borders of the room, a tile scriber and wire or a tile saw cuts the tiles to fit into smaller spaces. A rotary tool with a tile grinding accessory can help smooth rough or irregular cuts. If the flooring is very irregular, look at placing the tiles in a full mortar bed, and it is a thick, even layer of mortar across the full surface. Level the tiles pressing them down until the mortar sets. Use a 4-foot degree to check as you operate. Gloves and goggles protect the eyes and hands when cutting tile. A ruler and pen help make straight cuts.

Implementing the Grout

Prior to grouting, the tiles have to be sealed. Clay is exceptionally absorbent, which makes grout mistakes almost impossible to remove once they have contacted the surface. Purchase sealer especially for Mexican tiles out of a home improvement center. Tile takes at least 24 hours to set securely in the thinset or mortar. Once it’s safe to walk on the ground, mix grout at a container. Sanded grout, that is simply grout with fine sand mixed in, comes in a variety of colors. Sanded grout is required for flooring tiles, so as unsanded grout is weaker. Grout is usually a powder that you mix with water, and also you want a solid stir rod or metal paint mixing tool attached to a power drill to mix it. Eliminate any spacers in the tile with thin pliers and then use the grout into the grout lines with a grout float — a smooth, flat trowel. Drag the border of the grout float at an angle throughout the grout lines to remove excess grout in the tile without bothering the moist cloth, and wipe up any excess with a damp sponge. Soon afterward, a powdery haze will form on the tiles. Buff the tiles using a dry rag to remove the haze as though you were removing car wax.


Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust or debris in the ground first, before verifying that none of these tiles has adhesive or grout residue. If the grout is significantly less than 24 hours old, you can usually remove it by rubbing with a damp sponge. When it’s cured for over 24 hours, then you might require a unique chemical, available in vinyl sections of home improvement centers, to eliminate the mistakes. Once all mistakes are removed along with the grout is treated, seal the entire floor, including the grout, with sealer created for Mexican tile.

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