Since they store water in their leaves, succulent plants can endure occasional dry periods, making them a wise option for low-water gardens and neglectful gardeners. Although many succulents are simple to root out from leaves — such as crassulas (Crassula spp.) , which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11) and kalanchoes (Kalanchoe spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 9 through 12, depending on species — not all of the frozen leaves will create new plants. If your frozen leaf cuttings are refusing to develop, you may have attempted to root the wrong succulent, not taken enough cuttings, or taken them in the wrong time of year.

The Wrong Succulent

Not all of succulents grow well from leaf cuttings. Some will root, but seem to stall in that point, rather than sending up new leaves. For instance, leaf cuttings of hoyas (Hoya spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 10 through 11 are problematic. Taking leaf cuttings may lead to deep origins, but a nutritious plant never types. If you wish to propagate a hoya, take a stem cuttingedge.

Too Few Cuttings

An endeavor to root just one leaf may lead to disappointment. Some succulent leaves may root but never generate a plantlet. When possible, take a few leaf cuttings to enhance your likelihood that a number of them are going to grow.

The Wrong Time of Year

Cuttings do best if taken prior to the period of year when they naturally put out the most increase. Summer dormant types grow most vigorously in fall and spring whilst winter inactive types take up during summer. Echeverias (Echeveria spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 8 through 11, depending on species, shouldn’t be propagated during summer. Euphorbias (Euphorbia spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 4 through 12, depending on the species, won’t root well during winter. If you are patient, cuttings that root during the wrong season may eventually send up fresh leaves in a few months.

Rooting for Success

To take succulent leaf cuttings, snip or split leaves from a healthy plant, keeping their petioles — the leaf comes — should they’ve petioles. Put each of the leaves in a bright, dry location, out of direct sunlight, for at least two days to permit calluses to form above the cut edges before you pot them up. To get a potting medium, use a just moist mixture of 1 part peat to 1 part sand or two components of cactus potting soil combined with 1 part of fine grit. Insert each leaf or leaf stem far enough into the soil that the leaf can stand upright at a small angle, and mulch the ground with a layer of fine grit to help retain moisture and support the cuttings. Should you keep the soil lightly moist, then the leaf cuttings should root in three weeks to three months.

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